Fes is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities and, for many people, its real heart. It’s the spiritual and cultural capital, founded over 1,200 years ago, and its old town is the largest car-free urban area on the planet. If Chefchaouen is small and easy, Fes is the opposite: big, dense, and medieval, a working city where donkeys still carry goods through alleys that haven’t changed in centuries.
That’s the draw and the challenge. Fes is less polished and less touristy than Marrakech, which is exactly why people love it. But it can also swallow you whole. So here’s the one honest tip up front: on your first day, hire a licensed guide. It’s not a luxury here. It saves you hours of getting lost and shuts down the touts before they start. Everything below assumes you’ll do that.
Getting there and how long to stay
Fes is easy to reach. The train connects it to Casablanca (about 3.5 hours), Rabat (2.5), Meknes (40 minutes), and Tangier (4.5). The station is in the new town, a short taxi from the medina. There’s also an airport, Fès-Saïss, with budget flights from Europe; a taxi or a riad transfer gets you into town.
Coming from Chefchaouen, there’s no train. Take a CTM bus or a grand taxi, roughly four hours through the Rif. (More on all of this in the transport guide.)
Give it two or three days. Day one for a guided medina walk, day two to explore on your own, and a third for a day trip. Two is enough to see the essentials; three lets you slow down.
The medina
Fes el-Bali is the main event. It’s a walled medieval city of thousands of alleys, with no cars, packed with mosques, workshops, and souks. Walking in feels like stepping back 800 years, except it’s fully alive around you.
It’s also a maze, and GPS barely works between the tall walls. This is the city where a guide on day one really pays off, and where the medina navigation guide is worth a read before you go. Once you’ve got your bearings, wandering it alone on day two is one of the best things you’ll do in Morocco.
Things to do
- Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate). The grand, tiled main entrance to the medina, blue on the outside and green within. The line between the modern city and the old one.
- The Chouara tanneries. The famous sight. Leather is still dyed in stone vats using methods a thousand years old. You view it for free from the rooftop terraces of the leather shops around it, which expect you to have a look at their goods. They’ll hand you a sprig of mint for the smell, and you’ll want it.
- Al-Qarawiyyin. Founded in 859 by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri, and considered the oldest continuously running university in the world. Non-Muslims can’t enter the mosque, but you can look in through the great doors at the courtyard.
- Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas. Two old religious schools with breathtaking tilework and carved cedar. Bou Inania is one of the few working religious buildings non-Muslims can enter, so it’s a rare chance to step inside.
- The artisan quarters. Nejjarine for woodwork and its beautiful fountain, Seffarine square for the coppersmiths hammering away by hand.
- The Merenid Tombs. A short climb to a viewpoint above the city, best at sunset when the whole medina glows.
What to eat
Fes is Morocco’s food capital, home to the country’s most refined cooking. It’s the birthplace of pastilla, the sweet-and-savory pigeon or chicken pie dusted with cinnamon and sugar, and it does the finest tagines and rfissa. Eat a proper Fassi meal at a riad if you can, and take lunch on a rooftop over the tanneries. (See the food guide and the tagine guide for the dishes.)
Shopping
If you’re buying leather, buy it here. Fes is the source, and prices run cheaper than Marrakech for the same quality. The city is also known for its blue Fassi pottery, brass and copperware, and zellij tilework. Haggle like anywhere else, and check the shopping and haggling guides before you dive in.
The best day trip
The classic Fes day trip pairs two sights in one run. First Meknes, another imperial city, an hour away, with a monumental gate and the tomb of the sultan who built it. Then Volubilis, the best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco, with mosaics still in the ground. Many people add Moulay Idriss, a holy hilltop town nearby. A grand taxi or a driver arranged through your riad makes it simple.
If you’d rather stay green, the Middle Atlas is close: Ifrane, an alpine-looking town, and the cedar forests near Azrou where wild monkeys live.
Best time to visit
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are ideal, with mild days around 18–28°C and a medina that isn’t overcrowded. Skip July and August, when the inland heat regularly tops 40°C. Winter is cool and quiet. If you can time it, the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music in June is one of the country’s best events.
Local tips and honest cautions
- Get a guide on day one. Said it already, but it’s the single best move in Fes. Book through your riad so you get a licensed one.
- The faux guides are persistent here. People will offer to lead you, tell you a site is closed, or steer you to a shop for commission. A firm “no, thank you” and keep walking. The safety guide covers the common setups.
- Dress modestly. Fes is a deeply traditional, religious city, more so than the coast. Cover shoulders and knees, especially near mosques. (See the dress code guide.)
- Mind Fridays. The midday prayer slows the medina and some places close for a couple of hours. Plan errands around it.
- Don’t wander alone after dark. The alleys get quiet and poorly lit at night. Have your riad guide you in, or take a taxi to the nearest gate.
FAQ
Is Fes worth visiting? Yes. It’s the cultural and spiritual heart of Morocco and its most authentic imperial city, less touristy than Marrakech. If you want the real, medieval Morocco, Fes is it.
How many days do you need in Fes? Two to three. Two covers the medina, tanneries, and madrasas; a third lets you slow down or take a day trip to Meknes and Volubilis.
How do you get to Fes? By train from Casablanca, Rabat, Meknes, or Tangier, by bus or grand taxi from places with no rail like Chefchaouen, or by air into Fès-Saïss airport.
Do I need a guide in Fes? For your first day, yes, it’s strongly recommended. The medina is the world’s largest car-free maze, GPS fails inside, and a licensed guide saves time and deters touts. Book through your riad.
What is Fes famous for? Its ancient car-free medina, the Chouara leather tanneries, Al-Qarawiyyin (the oldest running university), refined cuisine like pastilla, and traditional crafts in leather, ceramics, and metal.
What’s the best day trip from Fes? Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis, easily combined in one day. The Middle Atlas towns of Ifrane and Azrou are another good option.
When is the best time to visit Fes? Spring and autumn for mild weather and thinner crowds. Avoid the summer heat of July and August.